So, you are thinking that you may want to adopt a ferret? This section will provide you with some basic care guidelines for ferret ownership. Before you continue, we request that you read this page and give some thought to what we've written in regards to ferret ownership.

These little critters can make wonderful, loving companions and family pets. However, they are a serious commitment; financially, emotionally and time-wise. You may want to ask yourself these questions:

• Do I have four-five hours a day to commit towards supervising my ferret's playtime?
• Do I have the financial means to pay for any and all possible health-related costs for my ferret?
• Am I willing to clean my ferret's litter every day, and the cage at least once per week?
• Do I have the means to purchase the most nutricious food for my pet?
• Do I have time to investigate safe-toys and ferret-proofing my home?
• In the event of pests (cockroaches, ants, centipedes, etc) in my home, am I willing to investigate organic methods of pest-control in my living environment for the protection of my pets?
• Am I willing to wrangle with possible landlords regarding keeping my ferrets?
• In the event that I need to relocate, will I be willing to take the time to find a pet-friendly living space?
• Will I spend the time required to properly train my ferret against biting and litter etiquette?

These are just some of the important questions that you need ot ask yourself before committing to the adoption of a ferret. If you answered 'no' to any of these questions, a ferret is not the right pet for you. Sponsoring one of our needy ferrets would be a wiser commitment financially and for time, rather than adoption of a family-ready ferret.

Ferrets become attached to their owners, and contineous abandonment causes depression and stress for these beautiful little critters. Please think selflessly before adopting any animal.

:: FOOD :: HOUSING :: TOYS :: ONE OR TWO? ::

Proper nutrition is essential for your ferret(s)'s development and overall health. Much of what ferrets like to eat, is not necessarily good for them to eat. Below we have provided some guidelines for new ferret owners on what to feed your ferret. We've also provided an small index of resource links to sites that contain further information on ferret nutrition. Its up to you to do right by your animal and feed it the best quality food possible. Low quality food can cause serious health problems and a couple of dollars more spent on healthy food can mean spending less on an unhealthy ferret at the vet. If you cannot afford the best nutrition for your ferret, you cannot afford a ferret period.

DO'S

• Provide access to water and food at all times. Ferrets digest very quickly and tend to eat several times at day to compensate for their high metabolism. Free-feeding method is recommended.
  
  
• Change your ferret's drinking water daily! This is very important especially when using crockery bowls rather than bottles. Ferrets like to snorkel and splash in their water dishes and this can create for some very ... murky ... water.
  
  
• Choose a ferret food that has no more than 1.5% fiber (carbohydrates are not good for ferrets and their bodies have a hard time processing sugar) 30% – 40 % crude(animal-derived) protein and minimum of 20% fat. Dogs, cats and even humans have a ceccume which allows us to digest fiber. Since Ferrets don't have a ceccume, and can not digest fiber, foods with a higher fiber content will rush the food through the ferret's system, and not allow the ferret to benefit from the complete nutrient content.
  
  
• Choose treats that are protein based rather than fruit or vegetable based. A raisin a day won't harm your ferret, but their bodies don't easily process sugars. Too much sugar has been linked to the onset of Insulinoma among ferrets. It can be hard not to spoil your pet, but it really is for itheir own good that you don't give them those types of treats. If your fuzzy is begging or just plain being cute, try feeding them their regular food out of your hand. Often times they are just as happy to munch on that as they are a piece of apple or carrot. Another good treat suggestion is cooked egg yolks, boiled meat and tinned fish (not tuna, contains too much mercury) as treats for ferrets.
  
  
• Read the labels. Not all foods that are on the market are necessarily the best for ferrets and may contain large amounts of carbohydrates. Much like human food, just being on the shelf doesn't mean its healthy food.
  
  

DON'TS

• DO NOT FEED YOUR FERRET CAT FOOD! Ferrets are from an entirely different family than cats. Their nutritional needs are different and by giving a ferret food meant for a cat, you are denying them essential vitamins, nutrients, fats and proteins that they require. :: a comparison of cat vs. ferret nutritional needs ::
  
  
• Don't let food sit in their bowl for more than twenty-four hours. Clean it out and put in fresh food. You'll soon figure out about how much your ferret(s) will go through in a day.
  
  
• Never radically change your ferret's diet without consulting your veterinarian.
  
  
• Try to avoid giving your ferret tap water. Most water from taps has all kinds of additives that are not good for people or ferrets. Bottled water isn't much better. As of right now, there are no government-based standards for bottled water and the water's true source and "purity" is debatable. The best thing to do is get a filter for your tap. It's good for you and for your fuzzy.
  
  

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Ferrets are creatures which can be kept partially-caged (when you're not home) or depending on how well you are able to ferret-proof your house can free-roam. We recommend keeping your ferrets caged and well-supervised when they are out as these guys are notorious for finding trouble!

Housing
Your ferret requires 3-4 hours of excercise a day and given that the rest of the time is spent in a cage it is always advisable to buy the largest cage that you can afford. There are several different companies that provide ferret cages and it can be overwhelming. Remember that you will be disassembling the cage at least once a week for cleaning, so buy something that isn't too complicated or difficult to clean. The ferretstore.com has a large selection of cages and will give you and idea of what is currently available on the market. Wire cages are harmful on paws and can rust when in contact with urine or feces. A solution to that is to velcro cloth to the bottom of the cage, thereby protecting your fuzzie's feet and the metal from your fuzzy! DO NOT USE AN AQUARIUM AS A CAGE! This is extremely dangerous for a ferret and can cause health problems, possibly death. The cage should always be kept in a temperature controlled environment as ferrets do not tolerate extreme heat or extreme cold.

Litter
Your ferret will need a high-back litter pan which needs to be scooped at least once a day. Never use clay or clumping litter for your ferret! These can cause severe respiratory problems. Recycled newspaper pellets (such as Yesterday's News) are great for litter. I also have found that they flush down the toilet very easily as they crumble when they come into contact with ferret excrement. If there isn't a store where you live that provides this type of litter, even putting down plain old newspaper is preferable to using a dust-free kitty litter.

Bedding
Ferrets need a dark warm place to hide away from the world. Buying up a bunch of nursing blankets at garage sales is an excellent way to keep lots of bedding handy and reduce how often you have to do laundry. Its advisable to change your ferret's bedding daily and wash larger items (such as hammocks, drop-sacks or cuddle-cozies) once a week with a mild aroma-free detergent. Expensive beds aren't necessary, just lots of soft cozy spots to curl up in. Much to my chagrin, my own ferret's favourite sleep spot was not his expensive drop-tube, but one of my old t-shirts!

Cleaning
Cleaning should be done at least once a week with a mild (ferret-specific if possible) cleaner. DO NOT use bleach in your ferret's cage! Make sure that each component is thoroughly rinsed as many ferrets have gotten sick and/or died from cleaner residue in their cages.

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Ferrets are naturally curious and highly intelligent animals. This combination provides for lots of laughs and mischief. Their nature is to play-play-play when they aren't sleeping the other 18 hours of the day away. As such, ferrets can easily become bored with the same old toys very quickly. A bored ferret can become destructive; biting their cage, over-turning their waterbowl and generally being naughty to liven things up. It is crucial to provide your ferret with a variety of play things in order to stimulate them and keep them happy.

Finding ferret-specific toys can sometimes be a challenge, depending on where you live. We've provided some links to different pages on the web that have some great affordable toy ideas for your little one! Follow these guidelines as well to ensure that their are no heartbreaking accidents during your ferret's playtime.

• Never allow your ferrets to play with toys made of soft rubber. These are very dangerous as a ferret's sharp teeth can easily break away pieces of the toy can then become lodged in a ferret's intestine, requiring expensive surgery and sometimes causing death. Hard rubber toys (like the Kong Toys) are much safer for ferrets.
• Rotate your ferrets toys. What's amazing is that a toy you put away a month ago that your ferret didn't touch, will suddenly be something new and exciting to play with.
• Don't allow your ferret to play with toys that contain catnip.
• Always check your ferret's toys for signs of wear-and-tear. Replace any items that are starting to break, flake or cake, if you catch our drift.

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At our shelter, we have a mixture of bonded pairs (ferrets that came to the shelter together and must stay together for their psychological well-being) and single ferrets. When you are considering adopting a ferret, one of your questions might be:

Is getting just one ferret by itself ok?

The answer is not so straight-forward and largely situational. Some ferrets just don't get along with other ferrets for reasons unknown to anyone. These ferrets might get along with other species (such as cats or non-hunting dogs) or none at all. In this situation, a single-ferret household is necessary and you must be able to spend a lot of extra time (more than the usual 4hrs) with this ferret in order to provide it with company and companionship.

If you are not sure if you will always be able to be home for 4+ hours a day of playtime with your ferret, adopting a bonded pair or two ferrets at once is recommended. The actual living costs do not increase much, however your vet. bills just got twice as big! When adopting more than one ferret, or looking to integrate a friendly single ferret with one you already have, please be cautious during the "introductory" period. Rather than re-iterate information already available, we've provided links to sites with suggestions on integrating your new ferret with your exisitng business.

Links

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